The Lost Legacy Of Habaspuri saree

A popular export from India is the Habaspuri saree, which is made in the Kalahandi area and has traditional designs like fish, flowers, kumbha (temple), and other artwork created by the Kondh tribal people.

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Western Odisha is home to several locations where handloom sarees are woven. Because of their elaborate patterns and motifs, Barpali, Sonepuri, Bandha, Bauda, and Sambalpuri sarees have made a name for themselves. A popular export from India is the Habaspuri saree, which is made in the Kalahandi area and has traditional designs like fish, flowers, kumbha (temple), and other artwork created by the Kondh tribal people.

The  Habaspuri saree renowned for its distinctive patterns and exceptional weaving, is in danger of going extinct because of negligence, insufficient raw materials, and there are no marketing resources available.

Bandha patterns are woven into both the body and the borders of Habaspuri sarees, whereas they are only visible on the borders of Sambalpuri sarees. Former Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru had praised it for its elaborate designs and artwork at a 1951 exhibition in New Delhi. Additionally, a geographical indication (GI) tag has been attached to the saree. An image of a Habaspuri saree has also been placed on the packaging of the well-known Tata Tea brand. The district and state governments, however, have not demonstrated any desire to promote the saree in domestic and foreign markets. since of this, production has been impacted and it is now in danger of being extinct since its weavers are losing their jobs.

According to sources, the Habaspuri saree was initially woven in the 19th century by Kondh tribal people. By resuming the manufacture of Habaspuri saree, the residents of the Bhulia (weaver) community of Habaspur hamlet under Junagarh block later adopted it as their traditional employment. As more upscale goods entered the market, demand for the handwoven saree gradually decreased over time. A large number of the weavers gave up on their traditional craft and found other ways to make a living.

Consequently, Habaspuri sarees disappeared from market outlets. The saree gained its name when the Bhulia weavers of Habaspur hamlet in the Junagarh block brought it back to life with their own elaborate patterns and embellishments. But in Habaspur village, it has nearly vanished because of a lack of government support and a shortage of raw supplies. Even though the weavers in Habaspur village left their occupations in search of greater opportunities, the distinctive craft is currently being continued by weavers from other villages within the block.

The district administration approved Rs 10 lakh for the resuscitation of the handloom weaving facility in the hamlet in 2022 with help from Vedanta Aluminium. Although the house has undergone renovations, the weavers’ issues have not yet been attempted to be resolved. Residents and members of the local intelligentsia called on the state government to take proactive steps to revive the well-known saree.