Get driven by the beauty of Taptapani

One of nature’s many wonders, hot springs are commonly believed to be blessed with healing properties. Taptapani is indeed a hot spring, and is said to have been more than 300 years old, as per tribal mythology. Revered by the tribals as Kandhuni Devi, Taptapani becomes filled with people during Sankrantis and Dussehra-type festivals when villagers from the surrounding tribal villages throng to pay obeisance to the goddess. But the rest of the year, it is deserted, and if you are nature and peacefulness lover, this is your place. Other than the chirping of birds, babbling of mountain streams and passing motor vehicle every now and then, it is completely silent, providing that magical sense of being entirely isolated.

To have a first-hand experience of Taptapani, stay for at least two days, using it as the hub of your excursions to Chandragiri.

The most one can do in Taptapani is to relax and unwind. Bask in the sun, take deep gulps of the mountain air and become one with nature. Sit on the expansive verandahs or balconies of the guesthouse and simply observe nature. In the evening, only jungle noises reign.

You may also go for a long walk on the serpentine hill road, or hike up to view the origin of a mountain stream. Explore the Saora tribal villages in the vicinity with an employee of the guesthouse who can accompany you. Spend some time at the deer park – a large area covered with deer, sambar and black buck kept by the forest department.

The temple complex is made up of hot springs, which are housed in a circular tank. There are some boulders within, smothered with turmeric and sindoor, topped by dark red hibiscus – the special flowers offered to goddesses.

The goddess Kandhuni Devi is basically a goddess worshipped by the tribals. Worshipped in the form of rocks from beneath which the hot springs gush out, she is believed to bestow children. By tradition, women who approach her for blessings observe a fast and worship the goddess. Having consumed prasad, they bathe in the hot springs and dig up a handful of mud from the spring. The priest, locally referred to as Jani, glances at the mud and foretells if their desires are to be met or not. It is also thought that the water has healing qualities and thus individuals afflicted with skin diseases visit here to get cured.

The farmers in the region take jars of water from the hot springs and pour it all over their farmlands believing that the goddess will favor them with bountiful yields. All rituals of Lord Nilakantheswara, the presiding deity of Shiva temple located near the hot springs, are also performed using this water.

This perennial spring is the lifeline of the people and never dries up, not even at the peak of summer when water bodies in the surrounding regions get smaller and smaller. But according to some of the older residents the only significant difference is that the sulphur content has decreased. As per local legends, the hot spring used to be in another place, around 2 km distant in a region deep in the woods named Belagada. But that spring started dwindling and water ceased to flow. Then the goddess manifested herself in the dream of the priest and instructed him to find the spring where it is at present. Remnants of the previous hot springs, as remnants of shattered walls of the little tank can still be seen.

Hot water from the main tank is pumped to a couple of big tanks, and there are bath enclosures for men and women. A small pathway goes to a Shiva temple a few steps away and the entire space is covered by big trees, their circular trunks appearing to be pillars. An old tin-roofed shed to the left of the entrance arch is used as a dormitory.

Be it anytime of the year, you can visit Taptapani and get the same astonishing vibe. Odisha government’s Panth Nivas is where you can stay near to this site. Accessibility is quite easy with buses running all day to the place. Nearest railway station is Berhampur and nearest airport is Biju Patnaik International Airport in Bhubaneswar.